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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.